Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a international community of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this time-honored city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the limelight for what has always defined its soul: an profound devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to discover these stories and visit the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
